RETINAL AS A WELL-AGING ACTIVE INGREDIENT FOR SKIN HEALTH

Skincare with retinal – the one with 'a' instead of 'o' – is the better retinol. The effectiveness of this form of vitamin A against signs of skin aging and impurities is evidence-based – especially in encapsulated form. DR. EMI ARPA SKIN reveals everything you need to know about the effects and application of retinal in skincare products.

What is Retinal?

Retinaldehyde, better known as retinal, belongs to the vitamin A-derivatives (retinoids). Retinal is a natural precursor of retinoic acid. It therefore requires only a single conversion step, unlike retinol, to be oxidized into the active form. Retinal is considered in current studies to be the most effective over-the-counter retinoid with an optimal balance of efficacy and tolerability.

Evidence-based effects of retinal on the skin

Retinal is a very well-tolerated well-aging active ingredient to reduce the signs of skin aging (especially caused by UV radiation).  

Concentrations from 0.05% retinal for external (topical) application:

• reduce fold depth
• promote collagen synthesis
• increase skin elasticity
• improve the skin texture
• free the pores
• have antibacterial effect
• inhibit collagen breakdown
• refine the pores
• increase the skin thickness and make the skin more resilient
• reduce hyperpigmentation (from 0.1% retinal)

What distinguishes retinal from encapsulated retinal?

The retinal of DR. EMI ARPA SKIN Absolute A and Absolute A+ serums is present as an active ingredient encapsulated in liposomes. The encapsulation technique is used for various reasons: to protect the retinal and to maintain its stability and effectiveness. Because retinal is sensitive to light and air, which can lead to its oxidation and thus a reduction in its effectiveness. The encapsulation protects the retinal from these environmental influences and preserves its stability. Products with encapsulated retinal last longer and their effectiveness can be better preserved compared to non-encapsulated retinal. In addition, encapsulated retinal can be transported more effectively into the skin, which increases its effectiveness: The capsule ensures that the active ingredients of the retinal only take effect after penetrating the skin. Another advantage of encapsulated retinal is that it tends to irritate the skin less than non-encapsulated retinal.

Is Retinal allowed to be used during pregnancy/breastfeeding?

All forms of retinoids (retinol/retinal) should generally be avoided during pregnancy and breastfeeding, as they may have negative effects during pregnancy and/or breastfeeding.

Fewer side effects with (encapsulated) retinal

The controlled intake of retinoic acid in the form of retinal is generally better tolerated. In particular, encapsulated retinal tends to irritate the skin less than non-encapsulated retinal, which is beneficial for sensitive skin types that want to enjoy the aforementioned benefits of the active ingredient. Sensitive and redness-prone skin types should start with a lower application frequency and concentration of retinal – for example, with the Absolute A Retinal Serum from DR. EMI ARPA SKIN.

When should Retinal be used?

Depending on the condition and goal of the skin, retinoids can address a wide range of different skin concerns. Retinal improves skin texture - and thus also skin quality by stimulating collagen synthesis. This effect is possessed by retinal like no other active ingredient in the field of skincare; on one hand, it helps to improve the complexion: pores become finer, the skin texture is smoothed, and pigmentation spots are reduced. On the other hand, or rather precisely because of this effect, retinal also serves as an excellent active ingredient against aging processes and sun damage. Retinal thus accelerates, among other things, cell division, stimulates collagen synthesis, and promotes skin elasticity. Those factors slow down or decrease as we get older. The cell division and the comedolytic, antibacterial properties of retinal also have positive effects on blemish-prone skin.

As a dermatologist, Dr. med. Emi Arpa advises integrating retinoids (retinol/retinal) into the skincare routine in the evening. The application in the evening has the advantage that skincare products with retinal, such as DR. EMI ARPA SKIN Absolute A and Absolute A+ serums can optimally support skin regeneration and work undisturbed. In the morning, the antioxidant properties of retinal protect against the harmful effects of free radicals. In addition, the high light sensitivity is due to the high doses of retinoids used in such medications. A must when using retinal products: UV protection during the day – ideally with a sun protection factor of 50.

Sources

Boisnic S., Branchet-Gumila M.-C., The Carpenter Y., Segard C. (1999). Repair of UVA-Induced Elastic Fiber and Collagen Damage by 0.05% Retinaldehyde Cream in an ex vivo Human Skin Model. Dermatology, 199 (1), 43–48.

Diridollou S., Vienne M.P., Alibert M., Aquilina C., Briant A., Dahan S., Denis P., Launais B., Turlier V., Dupuy P. (1999). Efficacy of topical 0.05% retinaldehyde on skin aging by ultrasound and rheological techniques. Dermatology, 199, 37-41.

Hoogevest P.V.,Fahr A. (2019). Phospholipids in cosmetic carriers. Nanocosmetics.

Kwon, H. S., Lee, J. H., Kim, G. M., & Bae, J. M. (2018). Efficacy and safety of retinaldehyde 0.1% and 0.05% creams used to treat photoaged skin: a randomized, double-blind controlled trial. Journal of cosmetic dermatology, 17(3), 471–476.

Milosheska, D. & Roškar, R. (2022). Use of retinoids in topical antiaging treatments: A focused review of clinical evidence for conventional and nanoformulations. Advances in therapy, 39(12), 5351–5375.

Mukherjee S., Date A., Patravale V., Korting H. C., Roeder A., Weindl G. (2006). Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clinical interventions in aging, 1(4), 327–348.

Péchère M.,Pechèreb J., Siegenthalera G., Germaniera L., Saurat J. (1999). Antibacterial activity of retinaldehyde against Propionibacterium acnes. Dermatology, 199, 29-31.

Zouboulis C. C., Katsambas A. D., Kligman A. M. (Eds.). (2014). Pathogenesis and treatment of acne and rosacea. Heidelberg, Germany: Springer, 121-122.