SKIN PURGING

Learn why skin purging can occur with new skincare products, how to distinguish it from regular blemishes, and how to effectively prevent it.

What is Skin Purging?

Skin purging (English: purge = cleanse) refers to the temporary and initial worsening of the skin in the form of impurities when using new active ingredients such as retinoids, benzoyl peroxide, azelaic acid, acids like AHA and BHA, and also peptides like hexanoyl dipeptide-3 norleucine acetate. When using the mentioned active ingredients, the cell turnover rate of the skin increases. The cell turnover rate refers to the time in which skin cells die and are shed to be replaced by new ones. Through this desired process, which among other things causes the pore-refining effect, there may be an initial worsening of the skin. Sometimes this is even a normal part of the adjustment process when a new active ingredient is used. The initial cleaning process can free the pores from old impurities and, with a little patience, lead to improved skin.

Skin Purging vs. Impurities

The distinction between skin purging and a “regular” skin breakout is not always clear, as they exhibit many of the same symptoms: pimples, blackheads, and other skin inflammations are possible. An outbreak of impurities can indeed be a sign that the product is unsuitable, but in many cases, new blackheads or pustules indicate a temporary skin purging. Skin purging is not an intolerance reaction. However, some factors can be considered to assess the cause:

1) The timing of the skin breakout: Skin purging usually occurs shortly after the introduction of a new product, while conventional breakouts can happen at any time. People prone to impurities or acne usually observe their skin very closely and often know under what circumstances their skin tends to worsen, and can draw conclusions accordingly.

2) The location of the skin outbreak: Depending on the cause, impurities or acne can occur on any area of the skin. In skin purging processes, it is more likely to occur at a predictable location. To be able to recognize Skin Purging even more accurately, it is possible to use the product in question on a specific area of skin for a few weeks and observe the skin during that time. If the treated area generally remains impure or even improves, skin purging can be ruled out. If the treated area has more impurities, a skin purging is very likely, and patience is required, which will most likely pay off with improved and smoother skin.

3) The duration of the skin outbreak: The symptoms of skin purging are temporary and usually subside after a few weeks, while acne breakouts can recur or last for a long time. In the case of persistent outbreaks lasting 6-8 weeks, skin purging is very unlikely and the product should be discontinued.

Preventing Skin Purging

To prevent an initial worsening, one should gradually incorporate the new active ingredient product into the skincare routine. This is particularly useful with retinoids, as they also come with a certain potential for irritation, and one should be cautious when starting the application in any case. This allows the skin to better acclimate to the new active ingredient. Another tip is to use a lower concentration at least initially and then gradually transition to higher concentrations as the skin gets used to it, provided there is good tolerance. Additionally, preventive measures in the rest of the skincare routine are sensible: a gentle cleanser, moisturizing care, and adequate sun protection help maintain the skin barrier while a new active ingredient is being tested.

Source:

Dorwart, Laura: How To Tell If Your Skin is Purging or Breaking Out. Medically reviewes by Susan Bard, MD (Published on August 28) https://www.health.com/skin-purging-7852167#:~:text=Location%3A%20Depending%20on%20the%20cause,Yamauch.