Hyaluronic Acid: Intensive Care and Moisturizing for the Skin

Hyaluronic acid is a natural substance found in our body and plays a crucial role in various tissues, especially in the skin. This clear, gel-like substance is mainly found in the joints, eyes, skin, and other connective tissue structures. The term "hyaluronic acid" is derived from "hyalos", the Greek word for glass, due to its transparent, glass-like appearance. (1)

The main function of hyaluronic acid in skincare is to bind moisture and thus contribute to maintaining skin hydration. In the skin, it acts as a moisture reservoir, helping to make the skin appear plump, elastic, and youthful. As we age, the natural production of hyaluronic acid in the body decreases, which can lead to a reduction in skin moisture and the formation of wrinkles, among other things. Therefore, hyaluronic acid is often used as an ingredient in skincare products such as creams and serums. Additionally, hyaluronic acid also acts as an antioxidant, which can help protect the skin from harmful free radicals. (1)

When choosing a product with hyaluronic acid, the molecular size of the polysaccharides also plays a crucial role. Hyaluronic acid with low molecular weight (20-300 kDa) has the ability to penetrate the stratum corneum, while hyaluronic acid with high molecular weight (1000-1400 kDa) cannot penetrate the skin. This is supported by studies showing that low molecular weight hyaluronic acid (50 kDa) is associated with a significant improvement in skin hydration and reduction of wrinkles, which is due to its enhanced penetration ability.

In contrast, high molecular weight hyaluronic acid (more than 1000 kDa) tends to adhere to the surface of the skin and forms a protective film there. This film slightly limits the water loss of the skin and reduces the interaction with environmental factors such as temperature, humidity, and UV radiation. For this effect, penetration of the upper skin layer is not necessary. (2)

Hyaluronic acid, along with lipids, natural moisturizing factors, sebum, and aquaporin, is one of the primary factors of skin hydration. As a predominant component in the extracellular matrix, hyaluronic acid plays a crucial role in maintaining skin hydration. Hyaluronic acid is already formed in the early development of the embryo and is thus one of the first extracellular matrix components. In addition to its ability to bind water, the molecule acts as a lubricant during skin movements between the collagen and elastic fiber networks in the dermis. In addition, hyaluronic acid can influence cell metabolism. (1)

In our products, hyaluronic acid can be found in the Ten Out Of Ten Gentle Gel Cleanser as well as in the Perfect Plump Collagen Lip Boost. In our Lip Plumper, hyaluronic acid has a plumping and moisturizing effect, while in the cleanser, it has a water-binding effect.

Sources

(1) Barel A.O., Paye M.,Maibach H.I. (Eds.). (2010). Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology (3rd ed.). CRC Press.

(2) Essendoubi M.,Gobinet C.,Reynaud R.,Angiboust J. F.,Manfait M.,Piot O. (2016). Penetration of human skin by hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights as examined by Raman spectroscopy. Skin Research and Technology, 22(1), 55–62.