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INCI Deep Dive

WIRKSTOFF LEXIKON

ACACIA DECURRENS FLOWER WAX

Acacia decurrens (also known as: Mimosa wax), in German Black Pine, belongs to the Fabaceae family. The lipids from the flower extract offer a skin-caring and occlusive effect. Acacia decurrens wax...

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ACETIC ACID

Acetic acid, also known as vinegar acid, is obtained through fermentation and acts as an antimicrobial agent as well as regulating the pH level of a cosmetic formulation. (1) (1) Kareem G. Elhage...

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ACETYL HEXAPEPTIDE-8

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (Argireline) is a neurotransmitter-inhibiting peptide that has well-aging and moisturizing effects. It is believed that Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 could have similar effects to botu...

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ALCOHOL

Alcohol, also known as ethanol, is mostly used as a preservative in cosmetics. When applied topically (on the skin), it acts as a penetration enhancer and can increase the transdermal absorption o...

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ALLANTOIN

Allantoin is a skin-soothing active ingredient found in plants such as comfrey. In a study, a cream with 0.5% allantoin was able to accelerate skin regeneration and reduce skin redness after a tar...

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ALOE BARBADENSIS LEAF JUICE

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice is Aloe Vera juice obtained from the leaves of the Aloe Vera plant. Aloe Vera has been proven to promote wound healing in numerous studies. It is also used to maintain ...

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ALPHA-GLUCAN OLIGOSACCHARIDE

Alpha-glucan oligosaccharide is a prebiotic active ingredient derived from natural sources such as chicory root. These oligosaccharides consist of a chain of sugar molecules made up of glucose uni...

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AMINO ACIDS

Amino acids such as alanine, arginine, isoleucine, valine, proline, threonine, glycine, serine, histidine, phenylalanine, aspartic acid as well as the derivatives sodium PCA and PCA help maintain t...

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AQUA

Water is a solvent for hydrophilic active ingredients, for example in the aqueous phase of emulsions.

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ARGININE

Arginine is an important amino acid, which impresses in skincare with its moisturizing, antioxidant, and wound-healing properties. It binds water and thereby improves the hydration and suppleness ...

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ASCORBYL GLUCOSIDE

Ascorbyl glucoside is a vitamin C derivative that is preferred in skincare products due to its increased stability compared to ascorbic acid (vitamin C). In addition to its skin-protecting functio...

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ASCORBYL PALMITATE

Ascorbyl Palmitate is a stable derivative of Vitamin C, which ensures a supply of Vitamin C to the skin. (1) It is used in skincare products in this fat-soluble form because it is better absorbed i...

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ASCORBYL TETRAISOPALMITATE

Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate is a vitamin C derivative and is used in cosmetics for its antioxidant properties to prevent skin aging. (1)  It has a high affinity for the stratum corneum of human ski...

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ASTAXANTHIN

Astaxanthin is obtained from the green algae Haematococcus pluvialis  . This algae is a source of valuable bioactive compounds such as astaxanthin and other carotenoids (precursors of vitamin A). ...

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AZELAIC ACID

Azelaic Acid, also known as azelaic acid, is a dicarboxylic acid with various benefits for the skin. Azelaic acid can reduce hyperpigmentation starting from a 15% concentration by inhibiting melan...

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BACILLUS FERMENT

Bacillus Ferment is derived from acidophilic bacteria. In a study, a chitosan nanogel treated with Bacillus subtilis showed particularly wound-healing properties. (1) According to the manufacturer...

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BAICALIN

Baicalin is a plant flavonoid extracted from the root of the Scutellaria baicalensis plant, also known as Chinese skullcap. Baicalin has both antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects. (1) As part...

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BEHENIC ACID

Behenic Acid (Behenic acid), also known as docosanoic acid, is a saturated fatty acid found in natural sources such as plant oils from the seeds of Moringa oleifera, and in small amounts in rapese...

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BENZYL NICOTINATE

Benzyl nicotinate promotes blood circulation and thus, for example, in lip-plumping products, causes the desired skin redness and swelling for a more voluminous effect. (1) (1) Jacobi, U.,Kaiser,...

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BIFIDA FERMENT LYSATE

Bifida Ferment Lysate is a postbiotic and is obtained from the fermentation of the bacterial species Bifidobacterium longum. We use the Repair Complex of CLR, in this lysate the bacteria are inact...

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BIS-DIGLYCERYL POLYACYLADIPATE-2

Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2 is an emollient and has high spreadability. It was developed as a substitute for the common allergen lanolin. (1) (1) Fiume MM, Bergfeld WF, Belsito DV, et al. Sa...

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BIS-ETHYLHEXYLOXYPHENOL METHOXYPHENYL TRIAZINE

BEMT as Tinosorb® S offers highly effective broad-spectrum UVA and UVB protection based on organic oils. It has good performance as a photostable broad-spectrum UV filter, is compatible with organ...

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BRASSICA CAMPESTRIS SEED OIL

Brassica Campestris Seed Oil is derived from the rapeseed plant and is used in many cosmetic products. It has moisturizing and protective properties while having a light texture. The composition fe...

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BUTYL METHOXYDIBENZOYLMETHANE

Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane is a sunscreen agent also known as Avobenzone, providing UVA protection. This light brown, crystalline powder has a faint smell. Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane also pr...

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BUTYLENE GLYCOL

Butylene glycol is a diol that acts as a humectant and serves as a solvent. (1)   (1) Barel, A.O., Paye, M., & Maibach, H.I. (Eds.). (2010). Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology (3rd ed.)....

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BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII BUTTER

Shea butter is a fat obtained from the kernels of the shea tree and consists of a saponifiable fraction, which mainly comprises stearic and oleic acids with smaller amounts of palmitic, linoleic, a...

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C10-18 TRIGLYCERIDES

C10-18 Triglyceride is also known as neutral oil. It acts as an emollient and as a solvent in cosmetics. (1) These compounds consist of three fatty acids esterified with a glycerol molecule.2,3 Tr...

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C12-15 ALKYL BENZOATE

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate is a lipid of synthetic origin with moisturizing and excellent occlusive properties. (1) (2) (1) Stojiljković, D.,Arsić, I.,Kostov, M. T.,Jovanović, Z.,Tadić, V.,& Ðorđević,...

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C15-19 ALKANE

Alkanes are saturated, long hydrocarbon chains. They are used as solvents in cosmetics and additionally have a softening and smoothing effect on the skin. They are also stable against oxidative re...

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C18-36 ACID GLYCOL ESTER

C18-36 Acid Glycol Ester is an ester of ethylene glycol and C18-36 acid and acts as an emulsifier. (1)(1) Bährle-Rapp, M. (2012). Springer Lexikon Kosmetik und Körperpflege. 4th revised and expande...

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C18-36 ACID TRIGLYCERIDE

C18-36 Acid Triglyceride is a synthetic lipid used as a skin care agent with occlusive properties. (1)(1) Fiume, M. M.,Bergfeld, W. F.,Belsito, D. V.,Hill, R. A.,Klaassen, C. D.,Liebler, D. C.,Mark...

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CAMELLIA SINENSIS LEAF EXTRACT

Camellia Sinensis is the name of the tea bush that is also used to produce green tea. Camellia sinensis leaf extract is the extract of the plant leaves, which is used in cosmetics as a skin care a...

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CAPRYLHYDROXAMIC ACID

Caprylhydroxamic acid is a chelating agent. Chelating agents are substances used in cosmetic products to neutralize metal ions in the formulation. The special feature of this chelating agent is th...

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CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is also known as neutral oil and is a skin lipid that naturally occurs in sebum, consisting of a mixture of medium-chain fatty acids (triglycerides). Caprylic/Capric T...

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CAPRYLYL GLYCOL

Caprylyl Glycol has several important functions in cosmetic products. It has both nourishing and moisturizing as well as antimicrobial properties. This helps to improve the stability of cosmetic p...

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CAPRYLYL/CAPRYL GLUCOSIDE

Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside is a mild, non-ionic sugar surfactant. It is the product obtained by condensing a mixture of caprylic and decyl alcohols with glucose. Caprylyl/Caprylglucosid is recogniz...

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CAPSICUM FRUTESCENS FRUIT EXTRACT

Capsicum Frutenscens Fruit Extract is a chili extract. The capsaicin contained in it promotes blood circulation, thus causing an increase in volume and enhancing the natural lip color. (1) (1) John...

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CARBOMER

Carbomer consists of a high-molecular chain of acrylic acid units. It functions as a gel and film former, thereby increasing the viscosity of formulations, which stabilizes emulsions. (1)   (1) F...

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CARNOSINE

Carnosine is a dipeptide, consisting of the amino acids alanine and histidine. It naturally occurs in high concentrations in muscle and brain tissue. Carnosine is a powerful antioxidant that promo...

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CERAMIDE

Ceramides are among the most important dermal sphingolipids, which are part of the skin's own fats. They make up about half of the stratum corneum lipids.Ceramides have numerous structural and bio...

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CETEARYL ALCOHOL

Chondrus crispus, also known as Irish moss, is a type of red algae that is rich in carrageenan and acts as a thickening and stabilizing agent. These algae are also rich sources of natural polysacc...

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CETEARYL ETHYLHEXANOATE

Cetearyl ethylhexanoate is the ester of cetearyl alcohol and ethylhexanoic acid. It is considered a skin care product (emollient) as well as a hair care product. (1) (1) Fiume M, Heldreth B, Bergfe...

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CHOLESTEROL

Cholesterol belongs to the fats and, together with free fatty acids and sphingolipids such as ceramides, is a main component of the lipid fraction of the stratum corneum. Healthy skin synthesizes ...

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CHONDRUS CRISPUS

Chondrus crispus, also known as Irish moss, is a type of red algae that is rich in carrageenan and acts as a thickening and stabilizing agent. These algae are also rich sources of natural polysacc...

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CITRIC ACID

Citric acid regulates the pH value of a formulation as an ideal buffering agent and acts as a chelating agent, thus it can improve the stability and shelf life of products. (1) (1) Fiume, M. M., ...

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COCO GLUCOSIDE

Coco Glucoside is a mild, non-ionic sugar surfactant. Cocoglycoside is the product obtained by the condensation of coconut fatty alcohols with glucose. Cocoglycoside is recognized as safe at curre...

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COLOR INDEX (CI)

The Color Index (CI) identifies dyes by numbers that designate specific color pigments, such as CI 77007 for ultramarine blue. Dyes in cosmetic products are, according to the EU Cosmetics Regulati...

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COPPER TRIPEPTIDE-1

Copper tripeptide, also known as GHK-Cu, consists of three amino acids (Glycyl-L-Histidyl-L-Lysine) that form a chelate complex with a copper ion. It is a signal and carrier peptide and is one of t...

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